Like most of the health related contaminants we deal with, there is no taste or odor or color associated with PFAS, present in the parts per trillion levels that are believed to represent a health risk. So the only way to know is to test. Learn more
There are literally hundreds of parameters that can be tested in water. However, you can quickly and affordably get a good sense of your water quality by testing a much smaller set of items. We recommend using an independent, state certified lab whenever health issues are to be tested. The aesthetic or functional items can be tested by a qualified water professional in the home using field test kits, but you may desire a lab analysis for these items as well.
Your Secondwind Water Specialist is happy to make testing recommendations, draw your samples correctly and deliver them to a local, independent lab if you wish a confirming analysis, and for any health issues to be tested.
If your home or facility is served by municipal water, you can obtain their annual Consumer Confidence Report which will cover the tests the system is required by law to perform. You may wish to test for bacteria, lead or copper within your home because your home plumbing or treatment system can impact the ultimate quality of the water you consume.
Aesthetic and functional factors: Testing for iron, manganese, hardness, pH, alkalinity, sodium and chloride can give you a good sense of how well the water will work in your home, and whether or not it will leave stains or residue. In addition, these results will help us predict whether the water will impact your plumbing and appliances. It is possible to test for hydrogen sulfide odor, but it is actually more reliable to base a need for odor treatment on the symptoms in the home because the tests for this odor are subjective.
Health Issues: A basic health scan should include tests for bacteria, lead, copper, nitrates/nitrites, arsenic, fluoride, radon and uranium. High level results in radon or uranium would indicate that other radiological tests should be performed. For greater peace of mind a test for MtBE, the gasoline additive, can be included, and for a more complete picture you should request tests for Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and Synthetic Organic Compounds (SOCs). These last two are often only chosen if the home or business is located in an area where contamination is likely, but unfortunately this is impossible to predict as the activities of an individual homeowner can affect water quality in the surrounding area.
If you have received test results from a lab or inspection and have any questions in interpreting the results, call Secondwind. Our Water Specialists are trained to be able to answer your questions.
People often want to oversimplify the answer to this question. Passing tests for common aesthetic or functional items such as hardness, iron, manganese, and pH do not imply a safe water supply but simply a supply where the water is not likely to leave stains or mineral deposits.
In this region, if you want to know if your water is safe to drink you should test for bacteria, lead, copper, nitrates/nitrites, arsenic, fluoride, radon and uranium. For greater peace of mind a test for MtBE (the gasoline additive) can be included, and for a more complete picture you should test for Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and Synthetic Organic Compounds (SOCs).
These last two are often only chosen if the home or business is located in an area where contamination is likely, but unfortunately this is impossible to predict as the activities of an individual homeowner can affect water quality in the surrounding area.
It is not possible to know if your water is safe to drink from an in-home test.
If you are unsure about what your system was installed for or whether or not health issue testing has been done at your home, please contact Secondwind. We would be happy to review your records with you.
EPA Water Standards or Guidelines and their significance
The EPA establishes Maximum Contaminant Levels (MCLs) in the absence of an EPA MCL, states may provide guidelines
Common terms
mg/L = milligrams per liter, also parts per million (ppm)
ug/L = micrograms per liter, also parts per billion (ppb)
P/A = presence / absence, when even “1 bacterial colony” is considered unsatisfactory
TNTC = too numerous to count, used for bacterial tests
pCi/L = pico Curies per liter, a measurement of radioactivity, used for radon
NTU: Nephelometric turbidity unit, a measurement of the clarity of water
LD = Level of detection; the lowest level the lab equipment is able to find
BDL = Below the level of detection with the lab’s equipment
CU = Color Units, a standardized measure of the color of water
TON = Threshold Odor Number, for measuring odor as detectable by the human nose.
Coliform bacteria 0 Test is done on a presence / absence basis.
E-coli bacteria 0 Test is done on a presence / absence basis. E coli is a serious water quality problem, do not drink this water until resolved.
Alkalinity – Alkalinity measures the hydroxyl, carbonate, and bicarbonate content of water, which indicates the water’s acid neutralizing capability.
Arsenic .010 mg/L Arsenic is a naturally occurring element that contributes to various cancers, neurological disorders and circulatory problems.
Chlorides 250 mg/L Elevated levels are usually due to road salting or sea water intrusion near the coast. The water will begin to taste salty at 250 mg/L.
Color 15 C.U. A measurement of the color of water; color is usually due to the presence of iron.
Copper 1.3 mg/L Copper will be found in the water when conditions, such as low pH or the presence of chlorides, make the water corrosive to copper plumbing systems.
Fluoride 2 / 4 mg/L Fluoride has a primary standard of 4 mg/L and a secondary standard of 2 mg/L. Fluoride is an important element, however beyond a beneficial level it can cause problems with bones and teeth.
Hardness 150 mg/L Usually made up of calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate, impacts the usability of the water.
Iron .3 mg/L The standard of .3 mg/L is set because this is the level where staining (laundry, toilets, appliances) will normally occur.
Lead .015 mg/L In this region lead will be found in the water due to the previous use of lead solder in plumbing systems, or due to the small lead content of some brass fixtures
Manganese .05 mg/L The standard of .05 mg/L is set because this is the level where staining will normally occur. This is an aesthetic issue.
MtBE By state 13 ug/L NH; 70 ug/L MA. Methyl tertiary butyl ether is a gasoline additive that is believed to be carcinogenic.
Nitrates 10 mg/L A natural phenomenon due to the decomposition of organic matter; can be elevated due to agricultural practices or lawn fertilization.
Nitrite 1 mg/L In addition to the issues related to nitrate, the presence of nitrite also can imply problems from human or animal waste or wastewater disposal.
Odor 3 TON Odors tend to dissipate quickly so it is very difficult for labs to quantify odors; this measurement is based on a dilution process.
pH 6.5 – 8.5 A measure of the relative acidity of the water. 7 is neutral; below 7 is acidic.
Radium 5 pCi/L A radioactive element associated with bone cancers.
Radon By state 2000 pCi;L NH; 10000 pCi/L MA. Radon is a colorless, odorless gas that is the result of the decay of uranium and radium. Radon presents a risk when the air is breathed; contributes to the risk of lung cancer.
Sodium 250 mg/L Some natural sodium occurs in this region; but most elevated levels are due to road salting or sea water intrusion near the coast
Sulfate 250 mg/L A natural mineral which contributes to a white crust left where water evaporates. At extremely high levels can lead to gastro-intestinal distress.
TDS 500 mg/L Total Dissolved Solids, which is a measurement, in milligrams per liter, of the dissolved mineral content of water.
Turbidity 5 NTU A measurement of the clarity of the water; in this region high turbidity is usually due to iron, clay or silt.
Uranium 30 ug/L A radioactive element associated with kidney cancers.
Volatiles & Synthetics Vary Volatile organic compounds and synthetic organic compounds have individual standards and are associated with a variety of health issues.
A trained Secondwind Water Specialist can test aesthetic and functional factors in the home or business as part of a comprehensive site evaluation. These specialists are trained to recognize water quality problems and to design water treatment systems to solve for these problems. That same specialist would be happy to deliver correctly taken samples to an independent lab should you desire health issues testing, or confirming tests on any of the in home tests taken.
If you prefer to handle the testing yourself, we recommend utilizing a State Certified Lab. You can find a listing on your state’s Department of Environmental Services web site. In addition, we would be happy to provide a referral for you in your area. You will need to get the correct bottles for the tests you are interested in, and will need to follow the sampling procedures exactly. Some items are time sensitive, so be sure to follow the instructions with the test bottles or kit and get the samples to the lab within the appropriate window of time.
If your home or facility is served by municipal water, you can obtain their annual Consumer Confidence Report which will cover the tests the system is required by law to perform. You may wish to test for bacteria or lead within your home or facility because your home plumbing or treatment system can impact the ultimate quality of the water you consume. If you are concerned about aesthetic issues or chlorine tastes or odors, your Secondwind Water Specialist can address these items after a site visit.
If you think there might be gasoline in your water, DON’T drink it. A VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) test can determine if there is gasoline in the water. If it is present, it is treatable and we can help.
There are NH State funded programs that you might qualify for that would provide testing, treatment, and maintenance services for the removal of gasoline from your water.
Like most of the health related contaminants we deal with, there is no taste or odor or color associated with PFAS, present in the parts per trillion levels that are believed to represent a health risk. So the only way to know is to test. Learn more
MtBE is a chemical that was added to gasoline to help it burn cleaner. The State of NH offers sampling and testing services to test for the presence of MtBE at no charge to the property owner. Contact the Department of Environmental Services at the State and ask for the MtBE section. They will be able to help you.
Much of the odor in water in this region is a hydrogen sulfide / rotten egg type odor that gets worse when the water sits. This is the result of a non-harmful sulfate reducing bacteria that is very common. The odor is the result of the bacteria’s off-gassing and will collect in the plumbing and rise up to a faucet where it greets you when you first run water. We can install a water treatment system to prevent this from occurring but if you are interested in seeing if you can just lessen the annoyance, you can run some dilute bleach through the plumbing and let it sit while you are away. See our instructions on performing an internal plumbing disinfection for the steps on this procedure; it will require that you have a cartridge filter as part of your set up.
Reset the Bubble Up Flow Meter Valve
Press all 3 buttons, Screen will read “No”
Press the right button, Screen will read “Yes”
Press the left button, Screen will reset to 0, and the green light should come on.
RESTARTING A BUBBLE UP RADON WATER TREATMENT SYSTEM
(With Mechanical Pump Control)
If you have no water and the Bubble Up pressure gauge reads 0, the Bubble Up Low Flow pressure switch (which turns the pump off in the event of low water flow) has tripped.
If the pump or blower on your unit is continuously running, un-plug the unit from the wall before trouble shooting the problem. If you need water in the house you can by-pass the unit and get water directly from your well.
The most common causes of low flow cutout tripping and their remedies are:
5. A malfunction of the Bubble Up controls. The problem could reside with the floats, solenoids or pressure switch of the Bubble Up. Call Secondwind Water Systems for service.
Restart Instructions if plenty of water is now available for the unit:
Put the system in service (out of by-pass) and plug in. Wait until the blower stops running, and then restart the Bubble Up as follows: Locate the small metal lever that sticks out of the side of the Bubble Up pressure switch box (small gray or Black box with a nut on top, located on the pump control next to the pressure gauge) Lift the ‘L’ shaped wire lever up part way (450) until you hear the pump start. (You will feel some resistance.) Hold the lever in that position until the pressure on the Bubble Up pressure gauge reaches approximately 40 psi then release the lever. The pump should continue to build pressure and within a minute or two there should be water at the sink. If the pump starts then tops, you may have pulled the lever too far, try again. Pulling the lever to far will shut the pump off.
RESTARTING A CLEARADON RADON WATER TREATMENT SYSTEM
If you have no water and the Clearadon pressure gauge reads 0, the Clearadon Low Flow pressure switch (which turns the pump off in the event of low water flow) has tripped.
The most common causes of low flow and their remedy are:
Put the system in service and plug in. Wait until the blowers stop running, and then restart the Clearadon as follows: Locate the small metal lever that sticks out of the side of the Clearadon pressure switch box (small gray or navy blue box with a nut on top, attached to the Jet Pump). Pull the lever up part way until you hear the pump start. (You will feel some resistance.) Hold the lever in that position until the pressure on the Clearadon pressure gauge reaches approximately 40 psi then release the lever. The pump should continue. If the pump starts then stops, you may have pulled the lever too far, try again. Pulling the lever to far will shut the pump off.
MANUAL REGENERATION OF KINETICO WATER SOFTENER OR FILTER
Follow these steps to perform a manual regeneration process for a Kinetico water softener or filter. This might be recommended if you ran out of salt or if your well experienced a larger than usual burst of sediment or ferric iron.
On top of the control valve (the round black part on top of one of the two twin tanks), you will see a clear plastic disk with a small depression in the middle. Look down at the disk, and locate the black mark on the inside of the meter control disk inside the clear disk. This will be near the 6:00 or 12:00 position on the disk.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, push down on the screw in the small depression, and turn slowly clockwise, pushing down while you turn. Advance the black mark to the closest “BRINE” position on the disk. You will begin to hear a trickle of water that indicates you have triggered the regeneration.
If you wish to manually regenerate both sides, wait until the regeneration is done. You will know the unit has completed the process because the sound of water will stop, and the black mark will be at either the 6:00 position or the 12:00 position.
Most of the Kinetico RO systems include a MAC cartridge which stands for metered automatic cartridge. The unit counts the gallons of water you have processed and shuts the RO off when it is time for maintenance. More recently, we have an anti-leak option for our under-sink installations. This special shut off device will turn off the RO if water is detected in the cabinet under the sink.
The Vu-flow is a centrifugal / screen type filter that is intended to trap hard particles of sand or mica. The particles drop to the bottom and can be purged out by turning the knob on the bottom of the filter. Occasionally the screen itself will become fouled with a sticky iron or clay like material. When this happens the screen must be removed to be cleaned. To do this, follow these instructions:
It is very important to use the correct cartridge filter with your water treatment system to ensure proper operation. If you feel the need to try a different cartridge filter other than the one specified for your system, please discuss with your Secondwind water specialist to be sure the new cartridge will not affect the performance of your system and will address your concerns. If you do not know who your water specialist is, please contact us and our staff will be more than happy to connect you with the appropriate specialist.
All cartridge filters installed by us are available for purchase through Secondwind Water Systems. Our staff can retrieve your equipment records and quote the exact filter that was installed with your system. Most filters are available for shipment or pick-up on the same day. Payment is expected at the day of order or day of pick-up. Many cartridges are eligible for discounts when four or more of the same cartridge are purchased on the same day. We accept Cash, Check, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express.
If your water treatment system was installed to treat aesthetic factors such as staining, hardness or odor, you know if the system is working based on the symptoms in the home. We recommend that you test your untreated water from time to time to be sure your system is set up for the current conditions.
Water chemistry often changes over time.
If your water system was installed to treat functional factors such as hardness or pH, testing both the raw and treated water periodically makes sense so that proper operation and set up of your system can be verified.
If your water system was installed to treat health issues, the water should be tested annually to verify that the system is working properly. Most health related contaminants have no symptoms and although the health impacts occur over a long period of time, you would want to know as soon as possible if the system is not functioning correctly.
If you are unsure about what your system was installed for or whether or not health issue testing has been done at your home, please contact Secondwind. We would be happy to review your records with you.
Problems of sulfate reducing bacteria, iron bacteria, and organic tastes and odors can often be eliminated by a complete chlorination of the well and distribution piping. For this procedure, you will need the following:
Liquid bleach – standard household bleach, such as Clorox, unscented. The correct quantity is 1.5 quarts for every 100’ of water in a drilled well. If you do not know the depth of the well, start with a half gallon of bleach.
Garden hose
OTO – a pool chlorine detection chemical available from a pool supply store or Secondwind Water Systems. This is not mandatory, but helps.
INTERNAL DISINFECTION PROCEDURE:
A build-up of sulfate reducing bacteria, iron bacteria, and organic bio-films in the plumbing of a home can cause unpleasant tastes and odors. While these growths are coming from the well and a complete well disinfection or full treatment system may be necessary, in some cases the problem can be lessened by disinfecting the internal house plumbing.
The procedure for chlorination of internal plumbing follows. You will need:
Perform this procedure just before going to bed or before going away for the weekend.
NOTE: For areas with strong bio-film, it may be necessary to re-chlorinate several times to completely kill the growth. If the odor returns, the sooner you re-chlorinate, the better. If you have to do this procedure on a frequent basis, treatment equipment may be necessary.
FLUSHING OF A DISINFECTED WELL
Once a well has been disinfected with chlorine it needs to be flushed and the well refilled with fresh water in order to be usable.
FLUSHING THE HOUSE:
When the drops of OTO no longer change color in the sample water from the hose, you can put your water treatment equipment back on line, and should replace any cartridges in any filter housings. Now run water at each sink, hot and cold, until the OTO drop stays clear in a cup. Flushing the hot water may take some time if you have a hot water heater with a lot of storage as it will need to be flushed and refreshed with clear water as well.
Remember that the chlorine used in the disinfection will oxidize iron and other metals and materials dissolved in your well water. You may see some rusty, colored water during this process and for a bit after until the well has cleared of all of the chlorinated material. And occasionally the disinfection process stirs up sediment. Because of all this, any cartridge filters may plug faster than usual for a day or so after the flushing. Monitoring your filter cartridges and your water pressure for a period after the flushing may help you avoid any pressure related problems.
(Blue Housing & Clear Housing) How To Video
A cartridge filter needs to be changed when you notice a pressure drop, or 3 times per year if no pressure drop is noted. Color alone does not necessarily signify the cartridge needs changing.
(Superkit/Yellow Housing)
Turn on the feed water by slowly turning the by-pass to the “GREEN IN SERVICE” position*.
Your RO should be removing at least 90% of the minerals in your water. Technicians will use a small battery powered meter called a TDS meter which tests total dissolved solids. They will compare your RO water to your kitchen water to determine if the membrane is doing what it should. If you are using an RO to solve for a specific contaminant you also should have a lab test done occasionally to verify that the results are satisfactory.
The only way to know is to test, and you should do this at least annually. Most labs can do testing through the mail.
We recommend the pellet or pellen style of salt because it is processed to be much cleaner than rock salt. Salt with the cleaning agent “green bag” for iron sites is definitely recommended if you are using your softener to solve for iron – the cleaning agent helps prevent the build up of iron residue on the resin beads. If you have an anion exchange conditioner (for removal of arsenic, uranium or nitrates), DO NOT use the salt with the cleaning agent, stick with the standard pellet style salt in the yellow bag.
Add some salt and let it sit in the brine tank for a couple of hours before moving on to the manual regeneration steps listed below.
MANUAL REGENERATION OF KINETICO WATER SOFTENER OR FILTER
Follow these steps to perform a manual regeneration process for a Kinetico water softener or filter. This might be recommended if you ran out of salt or if your well experienced a larger than usual burst of sediment or ferric iron.
On top of the control valve (the round black part on top of one of the two twin tanks), you will see a clear plastic disk with a small depression in the middle. Look down at the disk, and locate the black mark on the inside of the meter control disk inside the clear disk. This will be near the 6:00 or 12:00 position on the disk.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, push down on the screw in the small depression, and turn slowly clockwise, pushing down while you turn. Advance the black mark to the closest “BRINE” position on the disk. You will begin to hear a trickle of water that indicates you have triggered the regeneration.
If you wish to manually regenerate both sides, wait until the regeneration is done. You will know the unit has completed the process because the sound of water will stop, and the black mark will be at either the 6:00 position or the 12:00 position.
Water treatment equipment should never be allowed to freeze because the tanks will crack and the media can be damaged, so this is an important question. Some pieces of equipment such as a cartridge filter or aeration-precipitation tank can be emptied and left on site. Almost all other pieces of equipment must be physically removed and taken to a place where they won’t freeze. Even a small amount of water left inside a mechanical part of the system can cause it to crack and malfunction. If you are looking to have your system winterized, contact us to discuss your options.
1. Draw brine solution into the main and remote tanks, do not backwash the brine solution out.
2. Remove the main and remote heads and siphon the water from the tanks, use tubing down the riser tube to get most of the water out. Do not tip tanks if they have gravel in the bottom!
3. Get as much water as you can from the Kinetico module.
4. Drain all the water from the brine drum. Remove the brine valve and drain all of the water from it as well.
It is highly recommend that you store the Kinetico module and brine valve in a heated room.
Humidifiers evaporate water and the minerals get left behind. What’s the crust? If it’s calcium, a softener might solve the problem. Reverse osmosis (RO) technology will remove all the minerals from the water, allowing the humidifier to run more effectively and last longer. RO systems can be designed to keep up with any commercial demand.
Any water supply that serves over 25 people per day for 60 days per year is a Public Water System (PWS) and regulated under the Safe Drinking Water Act, even if the well is privately owned. If you now own a building that is a PWS, there are rules and laws you must comply with. The first step is to hire a Certified Operator who can explain the rules and requirements to you and help you develop a budget for meeting those rules. This is a service that Secondwind provides.
Your water treatment equipment will give you the most reliable service if it receives annual maintenance. For some pieces of equipment there are cartridges to be changed and materials to be added. For others this annual maintenance includes important disinfection and cleaning steps. For our residential customers we provide the reminder service and will contact you when it is time for your preventive maintenance.
For our commercial customers we offer a variety of annual maintenance plans with frequencies designed to meet your water quality needs. See our Commercial Service section for details on these programs.
Our services to our Public Water Supply customers include schedule management. We know your sampling requirements and take care of them automatically. If we are maintaining water treatment equipment for you, we plan for and schedule your preventive maintenance as well.
Some of our customers prefer to operate on a “break-fix” basis where they call us if something seems to be broken. While we are happy to provide this service it can add more stress to your operation as repairs are then needed on an emergency basis. Our preventive “PM” programs are designed to minimize emergencies.